Removing the ceiling "skin" will be necessary to access the framing and thus the damaged ceiling panels. The edges should have been "opened up" so that the side skin could be removed. (I also had to remove the ceiling vent).
Note: Use 2 - 2x4's to stretch the width of the camper with another running the length to support your weight when on top of the camper!
Since I didn't have the same set up as Larry at
Canned Ham Trailers had demonstrated in his video series to lift and remove the ceiling skin, I had to come up with an alternative. I placed lengths of PVC pipe under the skin, and with assistance "rolled" it off the front onto the driveway, where I flattened out the tabs, rolled it, tied it with string and stored it behind my storage shed.
Once removed, you are able to remove the center portion of the framing and any "curbing"on top of the wood paneling. I was able to re-use this section framing after replacing the ceiling panels (one at a time remember). If your camper had welt-cord between the walls/ceilings/cabinetry, you will need to replace it before adding the new ceiling panels.
The welt cord is available from Vintage Trailer Supply and can be affixed with a plain-old staple gun. It also might be necessary to remove the strips covering the seam from the inside and remove staples that attach the ceiling panel to the frame. Just reverse the process at installation!
All other framing was new because I wanted to have it extend the complete width of the camper instead of being "toe-nailed" to the side walls. (That is where those notations you made earlier will come into play). Remember the front and back will not be closed for awhile :)
 | |
| roof framing removed |
 |
| ceiling panel removed forward of vent |
|
|
|
|
 |
| replaced ceiling panel at vent area |
|
When replacing each new panel, I used one of the nails I removed to "hold" it in position, then moved to the opposite side of the camper and tacked it into place with another nail. Using nails allows panel to pivot. Then I used a staple gun to complete the installation. Note: You don't need a lot of staples because it will be held in place by the framing member (at each seam) and the "curbing" at the edge.
After all ceiling panels that are damaged have been replaced, then framing members can be replaced. At this time the electrical can also be run. (Just drop extra "romex" in locations that you fell you will need it later.)
Note: Depending on the construction of your trailer, it will also be necessary to remove the "curbing" at the edge of the trailer prior to removing the ceiling panels. Mine was constructed of three layers of 1/4" (nominal) plywood cut in 1" wide strips (across the grain so it would bend). I re-attached the curbing using 1/2" staples from an air compressor stapler between the re-attached framing members.
Next time we will talk about the wiring the electrical!
Happy Glamping!
Linked to:
