Friday, November 14, 2014

Glamper Remodel: Replacing the Ceiling Panels

Removing  the ceiling "skin" will be necessary to access the framing and thus the damaged ceiling panels. The edges should have been "opened up" so that the side skin could be removed. (I also had to remove the ceiling vent). Note: Use 2 - 2x4's to stretch the width of the camper with another running the length to support your weight when on top of the camper!

Since I didn't have the same set up as Larry at Canned Ham Trailers had demonstrated in his video series to lift and remove the ceiling skin, I had to come up with an alternative.  I placed lengths of PVC pipe under the skin, and with assistance "rolled" it off the front onto the driveway, where I flattened out the tabs, rolled it, tied it with string and stored it behind my storage shed.

Once removed, you are able to remove the center portion of the framing and any "curbing"on top of the wood paneling. I was able to re-use this section framing after replacing the ceiling panels (one at a time remember). If your camper had welt-cord between the walls/ceilings/cabinetry, you will need to replace it before adding the new ceiling panels. The welt cord is available from Vintage Trailer Supply and can be affixed with a plain-old staple gun. It also might be necessary to remove the strips covering the seam from the inside and remove staples that attach the ceiling panel to the frame. Just reverse the process at installation!

All other framing was new because I wanted to have it extend the complete width of the camper instead of being "toe-nailed" to the side walls. (That is where those notations you made earlier will come into play). Remember the front and back will not be closed for awhile :)

roof framing removed

ceiling panel removed forward of vent

replaced ceiling panel at vent area
When replacing each new panel, I used one of the nails I removed to "hold" it in position, then moved to the opposite side of the camper and tacked it into place with another nail. Using nails allows panel to pivot. Then I used a staple gun to complete the installation. Note: You don't need a lot of staples because it will be held in place by the framing member (at each seam) and the "curbing" at the edge.

After all ceiling panels that are damaged have been replaced,  then framing members can be replaced. At this time the electrical can also be run. (Just drop extra "romex" in locations that you fell you will need it later.)

Note: Depending on the construction of your trailer, it will also be necessary to remove the "curbing" at the edge of the trailer prior to removing the ceiling panels. Mine was constructed of three layers of 1/4" (nominal) plywood cut in 1" wide strips (across the grain so it would bend). I re-attached the curbing using 1/2" staples from an air compressor stapler between the re-attached framing members.

Next time we will talk about the wiring the electrical!

Happy Glamping!
Linked to:
Masterpiece Monday@ Boogieboard Cottage
Furniture Feature Friday @ Miss Mustard Seed

Sunday, November 9, 2014

Glamper Remodel:Supporting the Structure

Supporting the structure will be necessary if you need to replace the wood where it attaches to the 2x4 bolted to frame, or even replace the 2x4 itself.  I don't have any photos showing my supports, but I attempted to "draw" you what I did.

Front View:

Rear View:

 DO NOT unscrew anywhere the side wall attaches to the frame without providing support or your camper will "sink" and the side wall skin will not fit properly when you go to re-install. Once you have provided adequate "vertical" support you will be able to safely remove the nails/screws at the 2x4 located at the frame along the side of the camper at the wheel well area.

Note: 1x3 framing members are usually stapled together. You will need to remove the staples to replace any new framing members. You can easily remove the staples with pliers by wiggling them back and forth.

Here is the one I used: (available from your local hardware store)
Kreg Jr. Photo courtesy of

Happy Glamping!

linked up to:
Masterpiece Monday @ Boogieboard Cottage
Furniture Feature Friday @ Miss Mustard Seed

Tuesday, November 4, 2014

Glamper Remodel: Removing the Damaged Cabinets and Dinette Seats

Yowza! These babies don't really want to give up their parts. I of course, did it the hard way! Hopefully, you will do it the easy way!

Hard way: gently try to remove stripped screws (by any means necessary), pry up nails from the floor attachment and rip/tear from wall attachment.

Easy(r) way: gently try to remove stripped screws (by any means necessary), pry up nails from the floor attachment and then starting with the street side, remove and safely set aside (store) aluminum skin.

Using the Easy(r) method will gain access to the nails/staples holding the cabinets in at the side walls. Save yourself some grief and go ahead and remove the skin. You will need to anyway because you will have water damaged framing on the sides!

Note: I did not remove the upper cabinets across the front of the camper (over the dinette area) or the upper cabinets in the kitchen. Nor did I remove the closet/ice box cabinets. Don't forget to place those removed parts away for safekeeping!

Ignore the missing skin from the roof. I'll discuss that later. :)

When you have removed the side wall skin, you can easily access all the areas where you will need to replace water damaged framing,

Light colored wood is new.

Next post will discuss how to replace wood at the frame, without having the whole thing "sink" or collapse. I'm sure you would like to know how I accomplished that that!

Happy Glamping!

Linked to:
Wow Us Wednesday @Savvy Southern Style
 Furniture Feature Friday @ Miss Mustard Seed

Grab My Button

Honeydew Productions


Related Posts with Thumbnails