Thursday, March 19, 2015

Glamper Remodel: New Floor Installed

After prepping the floor with self-leveling compound, I painted the entire floor with one coat of kilz. 
Now for the fun!
I chose these!

Armstrong Excelon: Cool White

Armstrong Excelon: Buttercream
Mark the starting location for the placement of the tiles using a chalk line, I wanted my floor to run "on point"so I struck a centerline in the doorway, and a centerline  between the closet cabinet and where the face of the galley cabinets would fall. I used these lines to line up the points on my tiles. 

Use the appropriate mastic and trowel and follow directions for the application of the glue.

floor with glue applied

Here is a helpful video on "How to Install VCT tile:

My floor in progress
Finished with 5 coats of polish
Happy Glamping!

Sunday, March 15, 2015

Glamper Remodel: Fixing Up the Floor

Once all the cabinets have been removed (remember I left my closet/ice box cabinet), it is time to remove the old floor. My campers original 9" x 9" vinyl tile was relatively easy to "pop" off. What was left behind was another matter. Again, Larry came to my rescue!

At that point, I was able to cut out and replace the center 18" of plywood and sound board and replace both. (It was mainly the soundboard that required replacing.)

center of floor removed
In my case, I also needed to add 2 additional 2x4 supports (bolted to the frame) the length of the frame to support the new soundboard and sub-floor. Once installed, I used a self-leveling compound to bridge the old and the new and prepare the sub-floor for the new tile.

Happy Glamping!

Friday, November 14, 2014

Glamper Remodel: Replacing the Ceiling Panels

Removing  the ceiling "skin" will be necessary to access the framing and thus the damaged ceiling panels. The edges should have been "opened up" so that the side skin could be removed. (I also had to remove the ceiling vent). Note: Use 2 - 2x4's to stretch the width of the camper with another running the length to support your weight when on top of the camper!

Since I didn't have the same set up as Larry at Canned Ham Trailers had demonstrated in his video series to lift and remove the ceiling skin, I had to come up with an alternative.  I placed lengths of PVC pipe under the skin, and with assistance "rolled" it off the front onto the driveway, where I flattened out the tabs, rolled it, tied it with string and stored it behind my storage shed.

Once removed, you are able to remove the center portion of the framing and any "curbing"on top of the wood paneling. I was able to re-use this section framing after replacing the ceiling panels (one at a time remember). If your camper had welt-cord between the walls/ceilings/cabinetry, you will need to replace it before adding the new ceiling panels. The welt cord is available from Vintage Trailer Supply and can be affixed with a plain-old staple gun. It also might be necessary to remove the strips covering the seam from the inside and remove staples that attach the ceiling panel to the frame. Just reverse the process at installation!

All other framing was new because I wanted to have it extend the complete width of the camper instead of being "toe-nailed" to the side walls. (That is where those notations you made earlier will come into play). Remember the front and back will not be closed for awhile :)

roof framing removed

ceiling panel removed forward of vent

replaced ceiling panel at vent area
When replacing each new panel, I used one of the nails I removed to "hold" it in position, then moved to the opposite side of the camper and tacked it into place with another nail. Using nails allows panel to pivot. Then I used a staple gun to complete the installation. Note: You don't need a lot of staples because it will be held in place by the framing member (at each seam) and the "curbing" at the edge.

After all ceiling panels that are damaged have been replaced,  then framing members can be replaced. At this time the electrical can also be run. (Just drop extra "romex" in locations that you fell you will need it later.)

Note: Depending on the construction of your trailer, it will also be necessary to remove the "curbing" at the edge of the trailer prior to removing the ceiling panels. Mine was constructed of three layers of 1/4" (nominal) plywood cut in 1" wide strips (across the grain so it would bend). I re-attached the curbing using 1/2" staples from an air compressor stapler between the re-attached framing members.

Next time we will talk about the wiring the electrical!

Happy Glamping!
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